Every RV owner should be using a water pressure regulator on his city water supply to protect the water system from excessive water pressures. The reason is that RV water systems are designed for low pressures and are normally designed to operate at pressures less than 60#. Many cities have water pressure that is far above that and that could cause serious damage to your plumbing system. The standard answer to this problem has been the use of a water pressure regulator that is purchased from your local RV store. There are several types available ranging from cheap plastic to brass ones and some also have pressure gauges and priced from $5 to $10. There is also an adjustable one that will cost about $35. But none of these are the complete answer to supplying enough water, while still protecting the plumbing systems.
While these regulators do protect the RV water system from excessively high inlet pressures, they are not a total answer. And it has been my experience that the adjustable regulator from Marshall Brass that is sold at the RV supply stores is very little better. The reason is that while these products limit pressure they also limit the volume of water so much that the pressure supplied drops by 10# or more as soon as one begins to use water. The answer is to replace your pressure regulator with one of the "whole house" regulators from a plumbing supply house. I used one by Watts Regulators. (model N45B)
You can get one from most Home Depot stores or from Lowe's. If it is not available from one of these, any plumbing shop should also have them. They are available in either 1/2" or 3/4" flow sizes. I used the 3/4" size for best supply. You will also need a female hose bib for the inlet side and a male bib for the outlet and some teflon tape to seal the connections. You will also need a pressure gauge to adjust the operation pressure of the supply. I used one that is available at most RV supply stores and I attached it to the connection where the water enters the RV so that it shows the pressure down stream of the supply hose. With this system we now have showers and a sink sprayer that work just as well as the ones in a stick built home. The only question that I still have is why it took me so long to get around to doing this. One other suggestion is that you use one of the brass "Y" adapters when you hook up to the water hydrant to allow you to have another hose connected at the same time.
It is generally well known that draining an RV water heater should be done at least once each year to remove any build-up of minerals and solid debris that collects there. But far less known is the fact that it is also a good idea to clean the inside of the water heater to remove that build-up from the heating tubes and electric heating element. The best way to clean a water heater of minerals is the same as for a coffee maker, or any kitchen appliance. You need to run a hot mixture of 50% water and white vinegar through it. The issue then becomes how to get that vinegar into the water heater and at the required strength? I hope that this will help the visitor to our site to accomplish this task. My experience would indicate that this work is very important! When I completed this task I found that I had removed at least a cup full of minerals that were still in small, but soft pieces. We have been fulltime for 4 1/2 years and this is the first time that I have done this. Before you begin, use plastic bags or sheets to cover all electrical connections to insure that no water gets into the connections. It is also a good idea to cover the burner area to keep water out of it, but if you cover it, be sure to remove it prior to turning the heat back on.
I purchased a funnel from the automotive department, the "Velcro" straps came from and RV store but any means of tying up the assembly would work. The next item is a water heater flush nozzle from the RV store. Below the funnel is a barbed fitting from the lawn sprinkler department of Home Depot or Lowe's. It will need to be 5/8" for an Atwood or 3/4" for a Suburban water heater. The hose is a 3' of food quality hose from the same store of the proper size to fit on the barbed fitting.
Turn off the water heater and allow several hours for it to cool. Before you remove the drain plug, run some water from one of your hot faucets to make sure that the water is not hot enough to burn you. Next, turn off the water to the RV and remove the drain plug (see the left picture) and allow it to drain. To drain it more quickly, lift the lever of the pressure relief valve shown to the right. That will allow air into the heater and the tank will drain much more quickly, and it is good to exercise the valve to keep it working properly. With the drain plug out, close the relief valve and turn city water back on to flush out the tank. Once water is turned off again, lift the relief and leave it in the up, or open position. Screw the barbed fitting into the drain of the water heater and put the hose on to the fitting, once it is in place.
Next, insert the funnel into the other end of the hose and fasten it in some way to hold it above the top of the water heater. With the relief valve in the open position you can now pour the white vinegar into the funnel and thus into the water heater. Use three gallons of vinegar for a six gallon heater and four gallons for an 8 gallon heater. Once all vinegar is in the water heater, pour another gallon of plain water into the funnel to be sure all vinegar is in the heater. If you covered the burner area, remove the plastic from it next. Now, with help from an assistant, turn the water supply back on until the water just begins to come out of the relief valve. Turn off the water and close the relief valve. Now it is time to turn the water heater back on and to allow it to reach the operating temperature. The water will run out of the funnel as the water expands, but that is of no concern as there will be no significant pressure on the water heater and none is needed. Once the water heater turns off, allow it to sit and soak for at least an hour before draining.
This is to soak the lime and minerals coating the heat transfer areas of the water heater and to remove any coating. While it is soaking, if you have one of the electric heating elements that install into the drain plug, put it into a pan and cover it in a 50% solution of vinegar and allow it to soak as well. It will then be easy to remove any mineral build-up from the heating element. If your water heater is a Suburban with an anode, check it and replace it if the rod is 50% or more eaten away. When it is time to drain the water from the heater, just remove the funnel and lower the hose to allow the water to drain, placing the hose on something to prevent dirt from entering it. Then lift the relief valve again and the water will quickly drain. Remove the hose and plug and install the flushing device on to a garden hose and use it to wash the interior of the heater and by pointing it downward you can make sure that all solids will be flushed from the heater. It is a good idea to close the relief valve before flushing to insure that excess water does not overflow from it. Cover the burner area again before you begin the flushing process as water in it will make it fail to light. Continue to use the flushing tool until no more particles of mineral deposits come out. Once the water comes out clean, allow the water to drain, reinstall the drain plug or heating element, and refill the water heater. It will fill faster if you have the relief valve open, but close it before the water reaches the valve level to establish an air bubble in the top of the heater to allow for water expansion. Once the heater is filled, run water through a hot water faucet to be sure the air is all out, then turn the heater back on and you are finished, except for the clean-up. Store the tools in a plastic bag to keep them clean until time to do this job again next year. The final step is to sit back and congratulate yourself on what a skilled RV maintenance tech you are! While doing this a proper dose of your favorite libation is required.
It is not uncommon for RV owners to complain of bad water. The first sign of a contaminated water system is usually a bad taste, followed by strange orders emanating from the water supply. Bacteria may have built up in the water tank, especially if the water tank's supply has not been used frequently and has not been replenished with fresh, clean water on a regular basis. When a rig comes out of storage or is being used extensively on a city-water connection, the tank and entire water system should be sanitized before use. Some of the bacterial buildup can cause serious illness; so don't take chances!
Drain the water tank completely, then refill halfway with clean, fresh water.
Mix 1/4 cup of household chlorine bleach for every 15 gallons of tank capacity in a container with a gallon or two of clean water.
Pour this mixture into the water tank. If your RV has a tank fill valve that comes from the city water connection, the mixture can be poured into the hose, or if you use a canister water filter you can remove the filter cartridge and pour the chlorine into it.
Top off the water tank with fresh water.
Pump water through each faucet so that all the lines are filled with the water/bleach. You can easily smell the chlorine odor when it reaches each location.
The hot-water tank holds at least 6 gallons of water. Run the hot-water faucets until this much solution has passed to insure that the old water has been purged from the hot-water tank, and it is now filled with the water/bleach solution from the water tank.
Let the water stand for two or more hours.
Drain the entire water system, and don't forget to drain the water heater.
To remove the bleach odor and taste, mix 1/2 cup of baking soda with a gallon of water and pour into the freshwater tank.
Fill the tank completely and pump this solution through the water heater and the rest of the water lines. Driving the rig around the block will slosh water around and thoroughly clean the tank. Allow it to stand at least two hours.
Drain the entire system and refill with fresh, clean water. Once again pump the water completely through the entire plumbing system.
There are many hotly debated issues in the RV world, but this is probably one of the most heated. It seems that every product on the market claims to do things that no other product can, and each has it's following. I will try to address the problems of your tanks here and also to explain what we do and why. Like most things in life, this is not a simple thing with only one correct answer.