The following was written for us by a citizen of the UK who is presently spending an extended visit in the USA, traveling in his RV which they purchased here and have registered in Texas. He was kind enough to write this in an effort to assist anyone who may be considering making such a trip. The advice is from one who has done all of the things that he suggests.

The site was last updated August 2012 (originally compiled December 2007)

We’re Keith and Marie, our home is in England (UK). I'm 65 and Marie is 62. We started our trip in July 2004 and are still enjoying the RV life-style.

We own a 1 Ton, long-box Chevvy Silverado dually with a Duramax turbo-diesel engine / Allison auto-transmission power train. This tows our home, a 36 foot (11.5 metre) fifth wheel trailer with three slides. The trailer is rated at 14,000 lbs (6300Kg) gross vehicle weight. Both were bought in Houston, Texas. On the road trailer weight is ca 13,000 lbs.

See http://rving.sunpix.co.uk/ for more information. There is also information relating to entering the USA using a B1 / B2 visa and about travel in a fifth wheel trailer based on our personal experience.

Below are some of the issues we have faced before and during our trip. Although we are Brits, many aspects will be similar for other non-US travellers They are listed in no particular order of importance. If you are planning to use any information please check that it is current and relevant for you.

VISA

For a stay in the USA of more than 3 months, a B1/B2 Visa is necessary for tourist and certain business travel. The American Embassy in your home country issues these. A charge is made for the issue of the Visa.

A VISA DOES NOT GIVE PERMISSION TO ENTER OR STAY IN THE USA!

Before entering the US an I-94 application card has to be completed. At the border an immigration official will decide whether you may enter the country.

If permission is granted, the bottom section of the I-94 card will be stamped with the date of expiry and stapled in your passport. Usually a maximum time of six months is granted but sometimes a longer or shorter time is authorised. It is an offence to stay beyond the expiry date of the I-94.  Even having an acknowledged application to extend the I-94  'in the system'  does not change that situation. (see next paragraph)

Whilst in the USA you can apply for an extension of your stay. Form I-539, Application to Extend/Change Nonimmigrant Status is available online or by post from US Citizenship and Immigration Services www.uscis.gov   The cost per application (not per person) was $300 in May 2009. A detailed submission must be made explaining the circumstances for requesting an extension.  Application may now be made online.   During 2009 and 2010 application processing was taking several months.

The consequence of such a delay - resulting in an eventual denial -  will be that an overstay will have occurred from the date of expiry of the last I-94.  Even leaving the USA immediately after receipt of the denial notification could, then, still result in a lengthy overstay.  US border officials are likely to question firmly why that occurred when you apply to re-enter the US next time.  All documentation relating to an application should be kept to hand to prove it was made and that denial notification was delayed.  When an application to extend is contemplated, it may be worth doing it shortly after arrival to allow adequate processing time.

You may travel across the border into Canada, with the intention of returning to the USA, for up to 30 days without needing a new I-94.  Staying longer than 30 days would mean surrendering your current I-94 at the Canadian border and then completing a further I-94 application when returning to the US.

It might be thought that surrendering an I-94 at the border would be an easy way to get a new one later but American immigration may see this as a back-door method of extending your stay. (see 'Entering the USA') Additionally, Canadian immigration may want to be reassured that you will not simply remain in Canada, although I have heard no accounts of this. A flight reservation to indicate your intention of returning home might be useful when crossing in either direction.

BANKING

UK credit cards work fine in the US. Credit Card companies may make additional charges for foreign transactions. We've used Nationwide credit cards all the time and have found the service excellent - there is presently no additional charge for purchases made outside the UK. SAGA charges 1% for foreign transactions but we've had many problems with this company. The UK Post Office also issues a credit card without additional charges and we have had no problems with ours. (see also 'Quick Guide')

When we first arrived, our UK Debit Cards did not work for getting cash-back at store check-outs because the PINs were not recognized. We gave up trying to resolve this difficulty and opened a Wells Fargo dollar checking account with a debit card. A US checking account has been invaluable when buying goods or services online because a US billing address is usually required. A checking account is also convenient for depositing mail-in rebate checks and for issuing personal checks when campgrounds do not accept plastic cards. We transfer money from our online UK bank as necessary – this costs £8 per transaction plus a $10 Wells Fargo charge.  (see also 'Quick Guide')

We have been told that Washington Mutual Bank and Nationwide are linked - withdrawals from WaMu ATMs using Nationwide cards apparently do not attract additional charges.

Chip and PIN is on the horizon in the US and Canada. New-generation card readers detect the presence of embedded chips and 'swiping' will not then work. PINs have to be used as at home but a workaround is to get the trader to manually input the card number. This avoids having to keep UK PINs to hand for these odd occasions. We have encountered chip readers on only four occasions, twice in the USA and twice in Canada thus far (Mar 2008).

US ADDRESS

A legal address is required for registering, titling and insuring a vehicle. Certain states recognize PMBs (Private Mail Boxes) as legal addresses. Texas, South Dakota (see also 'Quick Guide') and Florida may be good choices for foreigners. In 2010 we met a Brit who had been registered in New Mexico for some years so that might be worth checking out. We chose Texas and joined the Escapees RV Club in Livingston. Their mail service provides Polk County mailbox addresses for many RVers.

MAIL As indicated above, Escapees RV Club has a receipt and forwarding service. Other mail handling and forwarding services are available.

DRIVING LICENCE UK licences are accepted. We have never been asked to show an International Driving Permit (this is NOT a driving license) but it may be useful in some States. A UK licence may attract loading of insurance premiums.

For extended stays it is worth considering taking a US driving test. A Texas licence cost $24 in 2004 and was valid for seven years.

The driving test in Texas was far easier than a UK driving test. A 'Driver Handbook' (like 'The Highway Code' in the UK) may be obtained from libraries or DMVs. The theory test has multiple choice questions, computer-based. Driving test centres can be very busy. We started waiting in line at 6·45am for a 9 o'clock driving test. DON’T EVEN THINK ABOUT TAKING A TEST IN A LARGE DUALLY TRUCK (as we did)! Use a rental car if nothing else is available.

BUYING AN RV

Buying, registering, titling and insurance should be straightforward provided you have a legally recognized address. Titling and Registering in Texas (Polk County) was straightforward. (although the clerk needed telephone help from the local DMV office because we did not have Social Security Numbers)

Unlike the UK, travel-trailers ('caravans') and fifth-wheel trailers have their own registration plate and ownership (title) documents . Tags (UK tax disc) for both trailer and towing vehicle are renewed annually. Postal renewal or online. Tags arrive in a few days. The cost of registration and titling varies from State to State. Online renewal is easy, even from the UK.

INSURANCE

Varies considerably from State to State and may be is likely to be more expensive if using a UK license. Holding a US license could make a big difference but 2009 regulations governing (TX) driving licence issue may make it much harder for foreigners to obtain a US licence.  Other States may appear now (2012) to have similar restrictions.  In March 2010 I changed my insurers in an attempt to get flexibility in cover and lower rates.  'Progressive' provided cover.  The original quotation through an agent was upped when the insurers learned that Marie held a UK licence.  The additional annual premium came to $140 just for her - I can only guess it would have been at least that for me too had I not held a TX licence - ie another $280 on the annual premium.  This is the first time I've seen a quantified difference.  (see more below)

[Research the Escapees members' web pages (http://www.escapees.com) or other RV forums for insurance experiences. Many insurers do not write policies for Texas. We chose Explorer RV agency.  All arrangements were made by telephone, Internet and Fax. Be sure that your insurance is written for FULL TIME TRAVELERS unless you are travelling only for short vacations. Our premiums (with National Interstate) increased dramatically in 2007. In early 2008 I had tried several insurers but found nothing better.]

Spring 2010 I approached Poliseek, a California based agency after finding a brochure in an Escapees magazine.  As we intended to spend more time out of the USA I wanted to find an insurer who could temporarily reduce the cover yet allow us to increase it when we returned to travelling in the USA.  National Interstate through Explorer RV was not suitable.  Initially everything went smoothly but I then had several problems with Poliseek and also with Progressive's website. They were eventually resolved  and the first period of 'off the road' state mimum insurance cover was arranged for the time we were back home in the UK for the Spring. Marie was removed by Poliseek from the list of drivers, again to reduce the premium, and after a few weeks the excess premiums were refunded.   In August 2010 I increased cover to 'comprehensive' (as described in the UK) covering all risks in readiness for getting back on-the road during the summer.

October 2010  The second 6 months instalment of the annual policy was fuss-free.  This payment was made by phone to Progressive, again straightforward although I had to ask for a faxed 'cover note' as the website would not allow me to produce one until the exact date it became active - even though I had already paid in advance.  Otherwise no problems.

October 2010  On returning home I reduced cover as before, later increasing it again and adding Marie in readiness for our return in January 2011.

March/April 2011  A further 6 months premium was paid by phone without hitch.  At the same time future coverage was reduced for the period when we'd be back in the UK with the truck off-the-road and I removed Marie again from the policy.  The procedure for the latter was less straightforward after we were given the wrong advice about what was needed.  5 weeks later Progressive notified me online that documentation was still needed to complete that process and, after complaining through email, I eventually managed to get that sorted too.  Annoying, though, as I had deliberately spoken directly to Progressive's agent in the first instance about how to deal with the matter.  On the plus side I could at least make these changes - something not possible with our previous insurer.

In readiness for returning in July 2011 I again increased cover on the truck from the state minimum to a level of cover which dealt with all risks (described as 'comprehensive' in the UK)  and also registered my UK licence because my Texas one had expired on my birth date, almost 7 years after it was issued.  As licences are now available only for the duration of an I-94 at best, it is probably no longer worthwhile trying to get a US licence.

One issue to have emerged since changing to Progressive is that when reducing cover, signed paper declarations have to be made by the policy holder and anyone affected by any changes.  That caught me out a couple of times because I'd expected everything would be covered online - not quite!  And somewhat strangely I found by making a declaration that I'd be using my UK driving licence it would also affect the trailer insurance.  Bizarre -  I pointed out to the Progressive agent - because the trailer can't be driven so the premium shouldn't be affected by a driving licence change.

PARK PASSES

Interagency Pass (National Parks Pass) is good value. The initial cost is quickly covered after a few visits. The annual pass can be purchased at information centres or at park entry booths on the first visit. Gives entry to all US National Parks and Monuments. States parks do not accept the National Pass.

TAXES

Sales Tax is between 5 and 10 percent. Some States may have lower rates and Oregon, for example, has no sales tax BUT check whether you’d be able to register and title a vehicle. Oregon allows only genuine residents to buy and register there. Buying in one State and then registering in another may attract additional tax.

PHONES

INTERNET

On the road we once regularly used libraries to access the Internet for email etc along with campground WiFi when available. Wireless Internet (WiFi) has gradually become more widely available but it's still not everywhere (October 2011 - it's are to have no service nowadays). Daily rates can range from $2.50 to $10 but often there is no additional charge. Reception at campgrounds is as variable as the places themselves. It can be excellent but may be patchy with variable signal strength and stability.  OCTOBER 2011 Over the pst couple of years we've seen BIG improvements in many campground WiFi systems.  Better signal strength, 11-N service, faster speeds.  How things have changed.

Wireless cards provide Internet access using cell phone providers' networks - download speeds are reported to be good provided the cell phone service is also good. Satellite broadband can be good but is still VERY expensive - OCTOBER 2011 Many satellite users are likely to have changed to using cell-phone services for Internet.  Adverts for satellite systems are rare. We still haven’t found any  need for our own ISP (Internet Service Provider) but there are still some inexpensive dial-up providers. Dial-up is as slow as in the UK.

It can be frustrating when campgrounds advertise Internet availability but it's then found to be unavailable or the service is poor!  In time this is likely to be less common as more campgrounds upgrade their service.

In summer 2009 we were back on the road and had good WiFi at the +35 campgrounds we visited.  We might have just been lucky but I get the impression that more parks are using modern high-quality antenna systems which, coupled with improved broadband capacity, has markedly improved the service.  Admittedly I'm also using a Hawking dish antenna (details below) and that's a help where trees, or distance, weaken the signal.  (OCTOBER 2011 It's definitely the case that systems are better and probably more widespread - I still find it's beneficial to use the Hawking unit shown below - the latest is 11-N)

It's some time since we started our trip and I would like to know whether our experiences are still relevant, particularly so in connection with the constantly changing security / immigration situation. If readers have any relevant experience or information I would be happy to include this. You can reach me at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

I am very grateful to Kirk Wood for all his practical help and for continuing to provide a space to record this information.

For more info, with a personal emphasis and fifth-wheel bias, visit me at http://rving.sunpix.co.uk/

There’s also much useful and interesting information at the website of Linda and Wullie Keir http://geocities.com/TheTropics/Coast/4356/index.html

Are Space Heaters Safe?

Using Electric Heaters in Your RVThis article was written by Kirk Wood and published in Escapees Magazine in 2005.

Fire hazard is always an overriding concern in an RV. The use of electric heaters is very common in the RV community and problems caused by them are pretty rare, largely due to improvements in such heaters and the education of users. Without question, the safest electric heat for an RV is to have heat strips installed in your air conditioners but that can be expensive if yours did not come with them. Space heaters can be used safely, with proper precautions.

The safest type of portable electric heater is the oil filled radiator. The oil diffuses the heat across the entire surface so nothing gets hot enough to present a fire hazard. But they are the largest and most bulky of commonly found heaters and they depend upon convection for heat distribution.

Ceramic heaters operate at lower internal temperatures than heaters that use wire grids. As such, they present less fire hazard than conventional heaters if tipped or if something accidentally comes in contact with the heater. All portable heaters should be epquiped with an over temperature switch and some also have a tip-over switch for additional safety. As a heat source with a small footprint, the ceramic heater is your best choice. Most also have a fan that helps to distribute the heat.

The glowing, infrared, radiant heaters provide a warm, fireplace-like glow and are inexpensive, but they are also the most dangerous of these appliances. If they contact flammable material they will cause a fire. The quartz heater is really one of the wire-wound radiant heaters with the element inside a quartz envelope. It is only one step above the old fashioned kind and I would not use any radiant heaters in an RV

Electric space heaters typically have a rating of 1500 watts, and most also have a low setting of 750 watts with a few having three settings. But those settings are based on the power used by the heater and do not tell you how much heat each makes for the power consumed. That is rated in BTUs and only one or two manufacturers give that information. When you shop, if the packages do list the BTUs produced, you want the one that has the highest output for the 1500/750 watts that is used. The two designs that supply the most heat for the watts used are the oil filled and the ceramic.

Any electric heater will be drawing nearly the maximum rated load of a duplex outlet, probably for an extended period of time, and RV sockets are not usually of the highest quality. A heater should always be the only thing plugged into an outlet leaving the other half vacant. A slight warming of the plug while the heater is operating is normal, but if you notice any heating of the outlet itself or if the plug gets hot enough to deform the plastic around the prongs you have a wiring problem that must be addressed. If you replace an outlet, do not purchase the lowest priced one available as they vary in quality, as well as price. Buy one in the mid to upper price range and from a known manufacturer.

The same rules apply to your shore power plug. Safe use of the full capacity of your shore power is dependant upon all equipment being in good condition, which isn’t always true. You should examine the plug to be sure that it doesn’t show signs of damage. If the outlet is not in good condition it isn’t safe to use, especially if you are using heaters or air conditioners. It should not show signs of having overheated, cracked, or of weathering. You can improve the electric connections by applying a small amount of dielectric grease, available from a home supply store, to each pin of your power plug. A bad outlet can damage your RV’s power plug, or worse.

A 30 amp circuit will be running at close to maximum capacity with two 1500 watt heaters. Add the other miscellaneous loads like lights and TV and you're probably at or exceeding that limit. It is wiser to use only one heater, or use two in different locations, but with each set to the low setting. If you have a 50A power cord you can probably use two heaters at the same time safely. If you do, make sure that each one is on a different electric circuit. With 50A service, it is a good idea to install a separate circuit for each heater that you use. Install a 15A circuit breaker into the distribution box for each using wire of 12/2 design and install a single socket outlet for dedicated use on each. These dedicated outlets are usually orange in color to indicate that they are on a separate circuit.

Never use an electric space heater with an extension cord. Even a very heavy cord creates problems because each electric plug uses friction contacts that are a source of heat when current passes through them. Each time you add another plug you create another danger point. Feel the cord of the heater and the outlet frequently and if they are more than warm to the touch, do not use them. Place the heater on a hard surface where it will not get tipped over or the air path blocked. And only purchase products that have the U/L label. And always read and follow the directions that come with the heater. By following basic safety rules electric heating can be done safely.

We couldn't live without our ............

We are very often asked what things in our RV would we not be willing to travel full-time, without? This page will attempt to answer that question and to explain why we insist upon having these things. I will also mention the items that we do not have, but really wish we did.

Dual Pane Windows - I put this one first because I consider it to be the most important item that is very often optional in RVs. RVs always have problems in cool weather with condensation on windows and window frames. Dual pane windows go a long way to solve that problem. And they greatly improve both the heating and cooling abilities of the RV systems due to loss or entry. I will never again own an RV that does not have them.

Power Leveling Jacks - For a week end or vacation RVer, this is a very nice item to have. For a fulltimer it is as important as a door step. None of us are getting younger and as we age the chore of leveling the RV becomes more difficult. It takes away one of the most difficult chores involved with stopping for the night. While they will not correct for an extreme out of level condition, and I do still carry a few blocks, in most sites they are all that is needed. I probably use blocks today in no more than 10% of our stops and I never use more than two blocks under one wheel. I just do not stay in a site that is too uneven for this much correction.

Electric Step - This one is much more important for the motorhome owner than for a trailer traveler. An automatic step makes entry and exit of the motorhome much more easily. As a word of caution, if you have one always check to see if it is down before you step out, and listen to hear it retract before you drive away. They are a great feature, but they can fail and a bent step will ruin your whole day!

Spacious Bathroom & Shower - Some people may consider this a strange item, but as you look at RVs, notice how often the designers make the bathrooms small and compact to save space for the living areas. That kind of thing will show very well, but this is a space that is one of the most vital in day to day living. Many RV facilities are so cramped that larger people have difficulty in using them. Our bath has a 3/4 tub and we also love that. While we may go months between times we use it to soak in, when we want it, there is no substitute and the tub means that our shower is much larger than is typical. You will use these facilities several times each day, in the middle of the night and when you do not feel well. They are just as important as anything in your RV for long term living.  Pick whatever floor plan you like, but do not scrimp on floor space here!

Waste Tank Flush System - One of the best, yet least expensive additions that I made to the motorhome is the tank flush system. I believe that ours cost only about $10 per tank. In our motorhome the tanks are easily accessible so it was very easy to install and I did not need one of the kits for a remote water connection. But when you live in your RV, a flush system will pay off very quickly.

Florescent Lighting - Our RV did not have this type of lighting when we got it, but we have found that the standard lights just are not enough light to read or do fine hand work by. For that reason I have replaced several of our most used lights with florescent lights. The two that we use most are of the "full spectrum" type. Full spectrum lights are much more expensive, but they make reading and fine work much easier to do and they are very cheery on a dark and rainy day. I will be adding more as time goes on.

Microwave/Convection Oven - This is one that we did not get and wish now that we had. There is very little that a convection oven will not do which can be done in a conventional RV oven. When we purchased our RV, Pam was not convinced so we did not buy one. We have seriously looked for one that will fit into our motorhome because they are as great as folks say that they are.

Washer/Dryer Laundry Equipment - This is another item that we did not get, and while not critical, we have come to the conclusion that it would be very nice to have and we would use it at least some of the time. They are usually small and will not do the bedding but it would be very nice to have the ability to do this when you wish. At the same time, with our floor plan, we would have had to give up our tub and a significant amount of floor space in the bathroom to get one and that we would not do. So it is something we would add if we were to move up to a larger RV, but we would not change how we ordered this one.