Truckers weigh their vehicles regularly so best bet is to find a truck scale someplace. At almost any truck stop you will be find a drive-on scale. Most of these are CAT scales or a Certified Automotive Truck scale. For a listing of scale locations throughout the US double click CAT Scale Locations to find one near you. In addition to truck stop scales some local gravel and concrete products companies or truck terminals have a public scale. Other places to get weighed are the FMCA or Good Sam rallies where RV Safety Education Foundation comes in or at Escapee Escapades where they also have scales for wheel weights. Some states leave the scales at truck weigh stations on when they are closed. Washington and Oregon welcome RVers to come in and use the scales when they are closed.

You need to know the weight of each axle and the total RV weight. Each axle is designed to carry a maximum weight and each tire also has a weight rating. As the weight increases, so must inflation pressure, up to the rated maximum. The wise RV owner uses the tire manufacturer’s inflation tables and knowledge of the wheel weights to determine the proper inflation for each tire for best ride, handling, and tire wear. It is also important to know how weight is distributed to gain proper balance of the load from side to side for best handling and comfort.

Rather than using just the weight of each axle and assuming that each tire is equally loaded, you should try to get a weight for each side at least once each year. To do this from a public scale you will need to locate one that does not have barricades along the sides to allow you to weigh once with all wheels on the pads and then a second time with only the wheels of one side on the pads so that you can subtract the weights of the single side from the totals to determine each wheel weight. Once you do that you can move things about in your storage to balance the load from side to side as much as possible. A difference of a few hundred pounds will not be problematic, but once you get much more than that it can affect handling of the RV. Many manufacturers do not put enough effort into proper weight balance of the RV when locating things like the water & waste tanks, the refrigerator, water heater and slides. You should try to have each side as nearly equal as possible. Once you know this, adjust tire inflation to the needs of the most heavily loaded tire on each wheel. Never run different air pressures in tires on the same axle. It is normal to have different inflation pressures in the front as compared to the rear on any vehicle if the weight tables suggest that.

For an example of weighing your RV, let's look at the following scenario. Remember that these are example weights only so you will have to substitute your numbers when checking your RV.

Assume that the RV to be weighed has a GVWR of 29,000#, a front axle weight rating of 12,000# and a rear axle rating of 20,000#. Individual wheel weighing scales give the following weight information.

With most truck scales you will get a ticket that lists each axle weight and a total weight for the vehicle. If this is the case then you would have received a total weight of 28,070# and axle weights of front 10,820# with rear of 17,250#, all well under the maximum ratings. Weighing the left side separately we would find 5,200# front and 8,870# on the rear.

On the two sides you will see that there is not a great difference in totals, but you might be able to improve on the 400#+ difference between the sides on each axle by moving heavy items in storage. If you are able to get the difference between the two sides to numbers no larger than this example it is probably not worth a great deal of effort to shift things around, but consider each axle individually and match the sides as much as possible.

Once things are as well balanced as possible and you are under the design limits for your RV, then next thing is to determine the proper inflation pressure for the tires of each axle.

Sample Chart of Tire Load Ratings
PSI		80	85	90	95	100	105	110
Lbs per Position	Singles	4000	4235	4465	4710	5060	5405	5880
	Duals	7390	7820	8270	8710	9150	9620	10040

Checking the above load inflation table we find that the left-front corner weighs 5,200# which calls for a minimum air pressure of between 100 and 105 PSI. The

On the rear axle we have duals so well be using the lower row of numbers from the above chart. At 8,380 lbs our right-rear corner requires 95 PSI when you divide the weight by two for the dual tires. The left-rear weighs 8,870 so requires 100 PSI so all four tires on the rear axle should be inflated to 100#.

Looking to the front axle, the left would require 105# or the nearest choice that is above the weight found while the right wheel comes to 110# of inflation, also rounded up. Therefore you should inflate the tires on the front axle to 110# for safe and comfortable operation.

Many RV owners inflate their tires to whatever the pressure is that is on the tire sidewall, but that is the maximum air pressure which that tire is designed to run with and should only be used if you do not know the actual weight that is on that tire when traveling.

Proper loading of an RV is important for both tire wear and proper handling of the RV, whether a travel trailer, fifth wheel or on a motorhome. It is good practice to check weights annually and to check tire inflation each morning before travel.

RV & Vehicle Weight Definitions

Over the years, there have been strides made in standardizing RV vehicle weight definitions, through the efforts of the Recreational Vehicles Industry Association (RVIA), RV Dealer’s Association (RVDA), RV Consumers Group (RVCG) and the RV Safety Education Foundation (RVSEF).

Manufacturers of trucks used to tow trailers fall outside of the realm of the RVIA, so you should always check specific manufacturer guides and manuals to understand vehicle weight definitions used.

Make sure you know what is included (or not included) in any numbers you get from a manufacturer, private owner, or dealer. It is very important to understand all weight and weight distribution in selecting and using your RV, tow vehicle and hitch mechanisms. Ratings cannot be changed as they are maximum weights determined by the manufacturer in the design of the vehicle.

While some of this effort has been aimed at making life easier for the RV consumer, a great deal of time has been spent by the RV industry to avoid having to comply with the safety standards of the federal highway regulations. While such compliance would be expensive, it would clearly improve the safety of travel in and by RV.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating represents the total weight the entire RV can weigh, when weighed on a scale. Fully loaded the RV cannot exceed this number or it is overweight and undue stress will be put on the chassis, engine, tires, etc. Carrying capacity is not necessarily related to the GVWR. Some RVs have heavy fittings like hardwood cabinetry, ceramic tile, and other heavy interior items built in so that there isn't much room for any cargo carrying ability while some lighter RVs may have plenty of cargo capacity simply because of construction differences.

GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) is the maximum allowable combined weight of the tow vehicle and the attached towed vehicle. GCWR assumes that both vehicles have functioning brakes, with exceptions in some cases for very light towed vehicles (usually under than 1,500#). Check your chassis manual or manufacturer towing guide. This weight limit applies to both motorhomes and to trucks towing trailers.

UVW (Unloaded Vehicle Weight) is the weight of the unit as built at the factory with full fuel tanks, engine oil and coolants. The UVW does not include cargo, fresh water, LP gas, occupants or dealer-installed accessories. All too frequently it is based upon design and not the actual weight of the RV as it left the assembly line.

NCC (Net Carrying Capacity), used from 1996 – 2000, is the maximum weight of all personal belongings food, fresh water, LP gas, tools, dealer-installed accessories and other items that can be carried by the unit.

CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity), used since 2000, means GVWR minus the following: UVW with full potable water system (including water heater), full propane tank, and SCWR. Optional equipment not included in the UVW will lower the Cargo Carrying Capacity.

SCWR (Sleeping Capacity Weight Rating) adopted by RIVA in 2000, is the manufacturer–designated number of sleeping positions multiplied by 1543 (70 kg).

GAW (Gross Axle Weight) is the weight of a fully loaded vehicle that is supported by a single axle, obtained by weighing the vehicle on a scale. There should be one of these for each axle of the RV. For motorhomes the front will be higher than the rear and if there is a tag axle it will also have a rating. For most towed RVs the axle ratings are all equal.

Dry Weight/Wet Weight/Curb Weight: Dry Weight is normally used to refer to the empty weight of a vehicle or trailer. Curb Weight or Wet Weight definitions generally refer to the vehicle weight including standard equipment, oil, lubricants and a full tank of fuel. It does not include optional contents or other optional equipment, the weight of driver, passengers or cargo. Sometimes, but not always, it includes fresh water and LP.

OCCC (Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity) (for Motorized RVs only):  This figure lists the maximum allowable weight of all occupants (including the driver), plus the weight of all food, tools, full fresh water tanks, full LP-Gas tanks and personal belongings.  The maximum allowable weight of passengers is based on the number of seat belted positions in the motorized RV.  The regulation also states that the “tongue weight of towed trailer counts as cargo.”

Payload: Payload capacities generally are computed by subtracting the curb weight of the vehicle from its specified Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The addition of any optional equipment or passengers adds to the vehicle weight and subtracts from the allowable payload.

Summary: The sad fact is that to be safe you can only rely upon the weights which are design limits (GVWR, GCWR, etc.) and those which you get from a certified scale or scale ticket for the vehicle in question.

One of the most challenging issues for many who are new to RV's or who are preparing to become fulltimers is the choice of an RV that will be right for them. Most RV owners are ready and willing to give you an opinion and most of them are going to tell you that what they have chosen is the best possible choice. While that is a good thing for them, all too often we fail to realize that the RV we find so perfect is not a good fit for everyone. I have come to believe that we who have years of experience in RV travel are both the very best advisers, and the worst ones. The reason for this is the fact that when we find our perfect RV we too often seem to believe that everyone should choose the same type of RV as we did. For that reason I do advocate that you listen to the owners of each type of RV, keeping in mind that they will be biased and so give equal weight to the advice of those with differing opnions.

The particular type of RV is probably the first thing that a prospective buyer should make up his mind about. There is no set way to approach this but I will try and point you in the proper direction. Probably the most important factors in the choice of an RV type will be the way that you will use it, the size of your budget, the number of people who will be in the RV and your own lifestyle. One factor that is often ignored by those who offer advice on RV purchases is the size of the occupants. The simple fact is that large people will need a larger RV in order to be comfortable. If you are extremely tall, the ceiling height  can be critical to comfortable living. There are only a few manufacturers who allow for the tallest of people so check that factor very early in the search. If either or both of you are very heavy, that can be just as difficult to deal with. In general, motor-homes are not a good choice for couples of great girth, because they always have at least some narrow passage points.

If you happen to be folks with a young and growing family on a limited budget, I am a firm believer that the pop-up can be the very best choice of all. We raised three boys traveling in one and we consider that to have been one of our best RV purchases. With a pop-up you have the ability to tow with most smaller vehicles which can not deal with the weight of most modern RV's. They cost far less to buy, they store easily and they are not difficult to set up. We have even met one couple who have been fulltimers for more than three years in a pop-up. The point of this is that you should not overlook any type of RV on the market in your search. Another RV which should not be overlooked is the hybrid. These clever trailers are a small travel trailer that has beds which pull out with canvass sides and top to use all interior space for living. In addition they weigh much less than a typical RV of similar living space and the are easier to tow. Both of these RVs are not commonly used for full-time RV living but can be a wonderful choice for the vacation traveler with a limited budget. These are also RV's which can be towed into more difficult RV sites to reach, such as the national forest sites and even to a hunting camp. Most of us would not be willing to take our expensive rolling homes into places where these can easily go. If you plan to travel far into the back country over less than ideal roads, these are good RV's to consider.

As we start to think of living for extended periods in our RV and perhaps retirement living, most of us want more of the finer things in life and few of us want to even consider an RV that has no shower and toilet on board. That is probably the case for most of my readers so we will now consider just what is needed for living full-time or snow-birding. For either of those you will want more comfort, room to do the hobbies and activities that keep you busy when weather is bad as well as all of the tasks of day to day living. Another thing to consider for a couple is what you do when one is ill and the other is not, and also issues of privacy for those times that you just want to be alone. These are factors which can be very important when even the largest RV home is less than 400 square feet.

Storage space is always important to consider, especially for extended travel or full-time living. If the RV is to be your only home, you will need to have the room to carry all of your possessions.  Part of the key to making this transition is being able to part with some of your things and to leave behind the things which you want, but do not actually need or use. No RV has enough storage to carry everything which you probably had in your house and garage. Large storage spaces and the weight capacity to carry what you store in them is important, but we have also found that accessibility to the storage space is just as important. My experience is that things which you can not see in their storage space will seldom be used and often will be forgotten. When you look at storage space, consider what you will store in it and how will you gain access to it for use. The frequency of use of and weight distribution are also important. Avoid having everything that is heavy on the same side.

Consider how you wish to travel to the store and to visit attractions as you look at RVs as well. Most motor-home owners tow a vehicle of some kind while those with larger trailers must have some type of large tow vehicle. If you are not willing to drive a heavy truck to the grocery store, it may be that you be happier with a motor-home and towing a small car.  Living space is greatest for the size of RV in a fifth wheel trailer, but they always have steps to climb, usually to the bedroom. The travel trailer has the advantage of a flat floor and good living space, but it also is the most difficult to maneuver into tight locations and usually will have less storage than a fifth wheel or motor-home. A class C motor-home is less intimidating to drive than an A but it will have less storage and usually less living space for the size.

There are many theories about what type of person prefers the different types of RV, but in my experience, most such theories have little truth in them. I believe that the main reason that one person loves a class A, another a fifth wheel and yet another a travel trailer or class C is mostly in the different personalities. There are priorities of what is most important to each person as well. A motor-home will be at a comfortable temperature as you arrive at your destination while any type of trailer will need to cool or heat. A trailer has more living space but less outside storage, or less accessible storage. the class C has a cab which can't be easily used as part of the home, but it also has better entrance and exit for the occupants while traveling.

As you begin your search, start by eliminating the types of RV which just will not do for your use. Most of us can pretty pretty easily eliminate the majority of types of RV. If you are going full-time, there will probably only be four to consider, the A & C motor-homes, travel trailers and fifth wheels. As you look at the choices, spend long periods in each one visualizing just how you will use it, where you will be when you work at your hobbies, when it is raining all day, when one of you does not feel well, and all of the other things which life brings. Walk around and study each cabinet and storage space, thinking of what will be in them and how you will use it. Check out the bath room carefully. If you are not comfortable in it, you will not be happy for long with the RV. Sit on the stool, pantomime the actions of brushing your teeth, taking a shower, and everything else that you do regularly in your bathroom. Do that same thing in the kitchen. These two spaces seem to be short changed in many an RV, yet they are critical to long term happyness with one.

As you spend time in the different RV's, you will begin to find that one particular type seems to draw your interest more than the others. Alow that to happen and put your emphasis into that group. If you take long enough there will come a time when one just begins to seem right. When that happens, you have found the proper type of RV for you.  Once it has happened, realize that you have found what is best for you and just smile smugly when the owners of other "perfect" RV's begin to tell you why you should have chosen what they like. Remember that the only people who need to agree with your choice are those who plan to live with you.